CHARITABLE CHEFS : Cooking up gumbo to aid the Big Easy

By E.B. FURGURSON III Staff Writer

Published 03/03/06, Copyright © 2006 The Capital, Annapolis, Md.

Since I left the restaurant business over six years ago to take up practice as a scribe I always thought about entering the annual gumbo cook-off held in conjunction with the Chamber of Commerce-concocted Mardi Gras in Annapolis.

After reading the event in early March would benefit Hurricane Katrina victims I could not think of a better reason to take a shot. After all I made a pretty good gumbo those years ago.

To lend some extra "mojo" to the effort I enlisted the assistance of a fellow reporter, David Leiva, who hails from New Orleans.

He thought it would be a good time, "laissez les bon ton rouler," and all that jazz. He did not realize that among chef's, the potential bragging rights can turn any party into serious business.

"Well, I opened my big mouth," Mr. Leiva said claiming no good gumbo could be found in Annapolis some 1,200 miles from the Big Easy, where you can pick up a good bowl at a corner dive or at a five-star institution like the famed Commander's Palace.

He said he got a little nervous when I started to take this thing so seriously.

Not that I am a chef, per se. But in 20 years, in the heat, and on my feet, I picked up a pretty fair repertoire.

So I got The Capital to agree to sponsor our attempt. Then I called chef Michael St. Ledger, honcho of the Chesapeake Chef's Association, who put on the contest. He was gracious to let us take a shot.

"You'll need about eight gallons," he said.

Whew. I had not whipped up that large a batch of anything since leaving the kitchen for the computer keyboard.

What kind of gumbo? Where to make it?

Galway Bay, the Irish Restaurant on Maryland Avenue where I last cooked for a living, let me use their stove and a pot big enough to whip up a batch. Chef Micheal Morrone also secured some crawfish, andouille sausage and other ingredients for the effort.

I decided to do a kitchen sink gumbo, with a bit of everything in it: Andouille and smoked sausage, chicken, shrimp and crawfish tails.

But it ain't easy. Working on special recipe, fitting it into an already impossible schedule is tough, but worth it for the glory and a good-job nod from chef Jim Eriksen of Pusser's in the Annapolis Waterfront Marriott Hotel. His gumbo took second place in the voting in both the people's and judge's categories at the competition.

Some who attend functions like the gumbo contest, or the crab soup cook-off sponsored by The Capital at the annual Maryland Seafood Festival, think restaurants and their chefs add a few special touches for competitions just to win. But Chef Eriksen says the gumbo served at his restaurant is even better than what he offered up at the cookoff.

I held my own at the event. People even lined up for a sample. Some came by for seconds, or thirds. One attorney in town with an affinity for gumbo came back five times.

A lady from New Orleans gave the batch a thumbs up. She and others said they would vote ours the most tasty.

That was nice of them. Heck they might have been right. But the final tally did not match our hopes.

Dave Leiva, who was bragging all day long, figured it out later.

"I thought being the only authentic New Orleanian was going to give us some sway with the judges. But who was I kiddin' " he said. "Two Capital reporters winning a gumbo competition? That would be as outrageous as two chefs winning the Pulitzer Prize. Not gonna happen."

But like Chef Eriksen said. It was for a good cause. Some 600 people attended and the Chef's Association raised $6,200 to be used to aid Katrina victims.

The secret to any gumbo is the roux - the combination of flour and butter slowly cooked and used as a thickener for soups. But in gumbo it is all about the flavor and color, not viscosity.

The gumbo roux is not a pale affair. It's dark, dark brown - a nearly black affair made by slowly cooking the flour and fat, steadily stirring it so it won't burn. For a typical batch this could take anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes.

After your roux is all set, then its the job of putting the gumbo together. It can be made of all sorts of things - fowl, game, seafood, and some sort of sausage, like andouille.

De rigeur is the "holy trinity," - onions, celery and bell pepper - the key for any good chef, Cajun or otherwise.

 
Annapolis chefs are constantly called on to come up with a signature item or two for a benefit event in support of a local charity or community group.
From the symphony to the homeless shelter to children's agencies, the chefs never say no to a needy cause.

From 6 to 10 p.m. March 26, chefs from 18 area restaurants and caterers will be at the Sheraton Annapolis Hotel in the seventh annual "Chefs by the Bay" fund-raiser for the Junior League of Annapolis.

Then on April 2, five restaurants will be participating in the 12th annual Dine Around Annapolis, in which patrons are bused from one site to another for the various courses of a sit-down meal. This is another benefit for local charities.

At the Junior League event the chefs will be at stations set up around the hotel's ballroom with guests wandering about tasting the various offerings at will. Proceeds are earmarked for young people's charities supported by the League. Tickets are $65 in advance or $75 at the door. Call 410-224-8984 for more information.

Those attending Dine Around Annapolis can be picked up at 2:30 p.m. at the Benfield Road Park and Ride in Severna Park or at 2:45 p.m. at the Radisson Hotel off Riva Road in Annapolis.

The first stop will be the Yellow Fin Restaurant for hors d'oeuvres and champagne. Then it's off to Carrol's Creek on Eastport for an appetizer. The salad course will be at the Sheraton Annapolis Hotel with the entree served at the Radisson.

Cordials with coffee and dessert will be at Pusser's Landing Restaurant at the Annapolis Marriott Hotel at the City Dock. Jim Eriksen of Pusser's plans to have a chocolate fountain set up with lots of fruits and pastries for dipping.

Charles McKnew of the Radisson thinks he'll serve quail, crab cakes and a beef dish for the entree. Those interested in participating may make reservations for $75 per person by calling 410-360-3572. Checks should be payable to the Chesapeake Chef's Association and mailed to Pat Ernst, 1251 Castine Court, Pasadena, MD 21122.